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OK, my pool is full of water, now what?  Well, that depends… the surface you have selected and the make-up of the fill water in your area will determine how you approach the start-up.  No matter which material you’ve chosen, it is vital that you understand the importance of a proper start-up procedure.  To a large degree, it determines how your new surface will look and how long it will last. 
First things first – unless you’ve been asked not to do so, immediately start the pool equipment once the pool is full of water.  Do not install the pool sweep at this time. 
I’ve heard the term “balancing the water,” what does this mean?  In simplest of terms, balanced water means that the water is neither scale forming nor corrosive.  How you achieve that balance is determined by the make-up of the water in your area. 
Without getting too technical, cement is the binder for most of our interior surface products.  It is comprised of minerals and water contains varying amounts of minerals depending on the source – think hard water vs. soft water.  The ultimate goal is to maintain an ongoing equilibrium between the water and the surface where the water is neither pulling minerals from the surface (soft and corrosive) nor depositing minerals onto the surface (hard and scale forming).  This is accomplished by testing the pool water and then based on the results, carefully adding products that will lead to this balance.
Fortunately, there are invaluable resources available that provide detailed instructions on what to add and when to add it and these can be found on the websites for each product.  We encourage you to click on the appropriate link listed below.  Or, you can hire a pool service professional who will be familiar with the water in your area and the new material in your pool.
Whichever route you take, we are always just a phone call away and happy to provide whatever assistance we can. 


Congratulations, your swimming pool has a new fiberglass surface! You may already know that fiberglass is one of the easiest pool surfaces to maintain and has the highest tensile strength of any of the interior surface materials. It is also one of the most durable surfaces and can withstand water conditions that would destroy other types of interior finishes. If the installers haven’t already started filling the pool, they will leave instructions as to when you should turn on the hose. Continuously fill the pool until it reaches the middle of the skimmer. Once the pool is full of water, start the pool equipment and adjust the calcium hardness until it reaches at least 300 ppm. Once that has been accomplished, adjust the pH to 7.2 to 7.4, the total alkalinity to 100 to 120 ppm, and the chlorine to 1.0 to 1.5 ppm and then install the pool sweep and you’re done. Fiberglass does not require any brushing during the start-up period.
Feel free to contact our office or your job superintendent with any questions.



Like all cement based interior pool finishes, all of the Pebble Plus products are water cured. This means they must be filled with water as soon as possible after installation. Your installer has set up your garden hose in a particular way with the water running to fill your pool. Do not move the hose until the pool is filled with water. If you have a spa you can move the hose to the spa once the pool is filled. DO NOT stop the fill process until the water has reached the tile line.

How you maintain and care for your new pebble surface in the first 30 days will go a long way towards maximizing the longevity of the material. If this is a new pool, most builders will perform the initial startup and provide instructions for the care of your new pool. If you’re an existing pool owner and already have an understanding of pool care you can do it yourself but it will require additional time and steps initially. No matter your level of expertise, the simplest way to handle the startup is to hire a pool care expert. They will be familiar with the material and the water in your area and know best how to go about achieving balanced water.

There is no one-size-fits-all approach to pool care so we don’t make specific recommendations as to what to add and when because of the varying nature of tap water sources. There are, however, optimal water chemistry goals that will provide the best swimming experience and enhance the longevity of your pool’s new surface. The following guide is designed to help you achieve the desired result. These recommendations are adapted from the National Plaster Council Startup Instructions for Plaster Pools and have been reviewed and approved by them.

Pool Filling Day
  • Do not stop the filling process and fill pool to middle of skimmer.
  • Make sure the filtration equipment is operational.
  • Keep people and pets out of the pool.
  • Do not add any additional fill sources.
  • Test the fill water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and metals; record results.
  • Start filtration equipment once the pool (and spa) is full of water.
Day One (It is vital that the steps be followed in order)
  • Test the pool water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and metals; record results.
  • Adjust Total Alkalinity to 80 PPM, adjust with Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) if it’s low or add small amounts diluted muriatic acid if it’s high. Adjustments are made based on test results.
  • Adjust pH to 7.2 to 7.6.
  • Brush entire pool (and spa) surface thoroughly once.
  • Although optional, it is highly recommended that a sequestering agent be added per the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Run filtration equipment continuously for a minimum of 72 hours.
  • Do not add chlorine for 48 hours.
Day Two
  • Test the pool water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness; record results, repeat steps 2 and 3 from Day One.
  • Once the Total Alkalinity has been adjusted to 80 PPM and the pH adjusted to 7.2 to 7.6, adjust the Calcium Hardness to a minimum of 150 PPM.
  • Brush entire pool (and spa) surface thoroughly once.
Day Three
  • Test the pool water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness; record results, repeat steps 2 and 3 from Day One.
  • Chlorine may now be added to achieve 1.5 to 3 PPM. NO SALT SHOULD BE ADDED FOR 28 DAYS.
  • Brush entire pool (and spa) surface thoroughly once.
Day Four
  • Test the pool water for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness; record results, repeat steps 2 and 3 from Day One for 14 days.
  • After the 4th day, the Calcium Hardness level should be adjusted slowly over the 28 day period not to exceed 200 PPM.
  • After the 4th day, adjust Cyanuric Acid levels to 30 to 50 PPM depending on the primary sanitizer being used. If you are using Tri-chlor tablets, consider a lower starting point as the tablets will add small amounts of Cyanuric Acid to the water as they dissolve and the cumulative level will build over time.
  • Brush the entire pool (and spa) thoroughly for the first 14 days.